Koh Tarutao Marine Nationalpark - the Pirates of Tarutao

Koh Khai

Koh Tarutao Marine Nationalpark

The history of the island - the Pirates of Tarutao

Thailand Koh Tarutao is regarded as a mystical island by the local people (the name means in Malay "mystery"). Just as the neighboring Malaysian island of Langkawi, it should have been cursed by a bewitched princess, and was lost and not accessible for centuries.

In 1936, however, Koh Tarutao was declared to become a prisoners island by the Thai government. The remoteness of the archipelago, the strong sea winds and the sharks and crocodiles in the waters seemed to make escaping from the island impossible. So Tarutao was the ideal place to arrest criminals, offenders and political opponents. In 1938 the first prisoners arrived at the Tao Wao Bay. Soon the numbers increased exponentially, and by 1941 it had risen to more than 3000. A second camp was built in the south at Talo Udang bay. While the regular offenders were forced to build the road between the two camps under very hard conditions, the political prisoners had more extensive rights due to their status, their background and education. They were not forced to work and spent their time with reading and writing. The harsh slavery and the malarial climate killed hundreds of slave laborers. It culminated in 1943. This year, more than 700 prisoners are said to have died. One reason was the Second World War The island and its prisoners were forgotten as well as their guards. The supply of the island came to a halt. Obeying the emergency, prisoners and guards allied themselves and searched for ways to survive. This was the birth of the infamous Pirates of Tarutao. They should attack on merchant ships in the Strait of Malacca for five long years. At first, the attacks were rather cautious and non-violent. But the more secure and undisturbed the pirates felt, the more brutal their attacks became. Soon they robbed, killed and sunk ships after the robbery. The pirates built their sphere of influence not only all over the islands of the region but also to the mainland, and they traded with the resident population there. The Thai government was unable to control their illegal activities.

It was not until 1946, when the British government sent troups to Tarutao, while negotiating post-war political affairs in Malaysia. These soldiers finally made the piracy an end for ever. The prisoners camps were closed, relocated and the pirates re-arrested. Koh Tarutao was left to itself and became an isolated and world forgotten island like hundereds of years before. Only a few fishermen and farmers came to the island, where they grow coconut trees and rice fields or spent there days with fishing. Pirates of Tarutao

The natural wealth and beauty of the islands and surrounding sea area were detected somewhat later, when the efforts of the Thai King, to conversate and preserve the natural resources of Thailand, focused to the southern archipelago. As a result, the entire region, with the exception of the inhabited island of Koh Lipe, became a strongly protected national park. This happened 1974. Koh Tarutao Marine National Park with its 51 islands and the surface area of 1490 square kilometers today is the largest marine park in Southeast Asia. More than 70% of the islands are covered with rainforest and mangroves, more than a hundred species of birds live in these forests, and the submarine biodiversity is among the largest in Thailand. In 1982, Koh Tarutao Marine National Park became also recorded in the list of protected areas in Asia.

Koh Tarutao is a mountainous, with dense forests covered tropical island. The highest peaks reach just over 700m high. The coastal areas consist of large, swampy, almost impenetrable mangrove forests of up to 80 hectares. Offshore the east coast with its many beautiful bays, there are some smaller islands, while along the western shore, long and secluded white sand beaches can be found. Wildlife in the woods represent mainly wild boars, malayan bears, monitor lizards, macaques, langurs and a variety of snakes. Sea and fishing eagles, hornbills and kingfishers are the shining birds on the island. Under water, some kinds of sea turtles are special for the marine park, beside a great variety of reef fishes. The well-known loggerhead sea turtle, leatherback turtles, green turtles and bastard sea turtles occur frequently. Also schools of dolphins can be seen quite often, rarely whale sharks. The diving area of the Tarutao National Park is considered to be excellent, although in some places the impact of earlier dynamite fishing are still obvious.

Attractions - places to go

From the park headquarters and the pier at the northwestern bay of Phante Malacca, two paved roads lead along the west coast to Ao Son and through the island into the deep south to Ao Talo Udang. Since there are no private cars, you have to rent a driver or do the trip on your own with rented bicycles. Worthwhile goals are, first, the two prison sites in the Ao Talo Udang and 8 miles north at Ao Talo Wao, which are connected with the old road built by the convicts. On the long sandy beaches of the west coast you can camp and dream your days in absolute silence and solitude. Tents can be rented a the headquarter. Bungalows are available for rent at the Son bay and the Jak bay, and of course at the beach near to the pier. From Ao Son ranger station there are jungle pathways leading to the two most beautiful waterfalls, the Lu Du and the Talo Po waterfall. However, both are are quite dry and not very spectecular from January to April due to the lack of water.

For true lovers of nature and solitude, Koh Tarutao offers a delightful opportunity to spend several days alone on the beaches or explore the interior island and the forests by mountain bikes. Also worthwhile, kayaking along the coast and the Phante Malacca river into the mangrove area of the northern Tarutao. Till one reaches the crocodile cave with its impressiv stalagnits and stalactites.
Those, who only briefly visit Koh Tarutao, should at least take the half an hour climbing trip to the lookout point of Toeboo. From there, some 50m above the park headquarters, a fantastic view over the northern coastline and most of the islands of the Tarutao Marine Park can be enjoyed, especially in clear weather conditions. On the short trip up and down the forest hill, you will very likely meet some macaques or beautyful island birds. Anyone who spend a night at the park headquarters, should make the trip before sunset and enjoy the marine island scenery with the setting sun.

Other Islands Bungalows on Tarutao

The next largest islands of the national park are Koh Adang and Koh Rawi in the west. On Koh Adang, there is a ranger station and since 2009, a small resort on the south coast opposite of Koh Lipe. The island is mountainous and not easily accessible, with trees and shrubs overgrown forest and has no roads or paths. Only a narrow path leads from the ranger station steeply up to a lookout point, that offers a magnificent view on Koh Lipe just a stone throw away. Since the islands coasts of Koh Adang fall quite steeply into the sea, good beaches are rare. On the east coast, some native inhabitants settle with their simple fishermen houses.
Koh Rawi, Koh Butang and the other smaller islands of Koh Sawang, Koh Barat, Koh Kata and Koh Bitsi are uninhabited, and also have no infrastructure. These islands can be reached by boats in 20-30 minutes from Koh Lipe. Especially Koh Rawi is target of snorkeling daytrips by longtail boats. Because of the unspoilt nature and crystal clear waters, there are still fantastic dive sites.

Between Koh Lipe and Koh Tarutao, the small island of Koh Khai (egg island) is located. It houses not only the stone gate as a landmark of the park, it takes its name from the sea turtles, still laying their eggs in the white and warm sand of this little island. It is therefore under special protection.

Best travel time

The National Park is open from November 16 until May 15. Outside this period, there are no boats to to Tarutao, due to the driving rain and fiercing winds and waves. From December to April the weather is usually dry and sunny. The tropical temperatures during the daytime are usually 30 degrees, at night they drop slightly to 25 degrees.
The pier of Phanta Malacca Bay is served in season from Koh Lipe and regularly from Pak Bara on the mainland. Also from Koh Bulon there are some connecting boats. From Koh Lipe private speedboats or dive boats leaving out to the islands of the park. Koh Adang and Koh Rawi are being operated with long tail boats mostly on day trips for snorkeling.